taiwan: mountain home

My wife is from Taiwan and she is a member of the Rukai Tribe, one of the many Indigenous Groups on that very large island. Aboriginal people in Taiwan make up a very small percentage of the total population and the Rukai are numbered at only about 10,000. Yet in recent years they have gained an unprecedented notoriety based on their unique ways of life, isolated yet beautiful mountain homeland, and their colorful arts and crafts. They represent the creativity and ingenuity that come from self-reliance.

The Rukai are located in Wutai, 1000 meters up into the very southern mountains of Taiwan, about two hours drive from the Kaohsiung airport. Visitors require a mountain pass to get into this protected area. It is here we have a home. We have built five stone houses… or perhaps cabins would be more precise… on the mountain slopes there, on the place called Banosaru.

Banosaru means ‘resting place’ and it is the site where those leaving for the lowlands would say goodbye. It is the ‘place to leave a damp cloth’ soaked in the tears of loved ones who would leave a fire burning to keep the traveler company on the long journey down the mountain. In the old days the only mode of travel was by foot. Banosaru is also the ancient site of the Shaman, a place to go to chant and sing. In the day you can see eagles flying over the valleys below and sometimes at night the moon shines so brightly it seems like day. It was said that the Shaman who once lived here could predict the weather, and the prosperity of coming seasons.

Some say that art and living are the same for the Rukai. Carved and sometimes colorful tribal images adorn stone houses and standing stones are markers of places and histories. People are hospitable to visitors.

On the mountain, at Banosaru we have built a retreat for ourselves and friends alike who are willing to immerse themselves in the ways of the mountain. It is a place especially suitable to the creative type and there is a place to stay for those who want to spend a day, a week or a month. Many people have stayed here, to fulfill their artistic, natural and cultural fantasies. There is a common kitchen, three guest houses, pure spring water and all the comforts of home with the extra bonus of a fantastic mountain view. For the adventurous, there are mountains to climb.

More than anything, we respect the history and heritage of this sacred place and we do things in a way that will not spoil the integrity of the mountain environment. Our retreat has been built almost entirely by hand. We have designed the space to be in harmony with nature, and so the houses are small and sturdy.

The best times to visit are winter (December to February) during the Chinese New Year, or summer (August 15) for the Rukai Harvest Festival. If you would like to stay at Banosaru, email me at: primalamerica@gmail.com

Check out these sites for a bit more information about the Rukai, and Wutai.
http://www.culture.tw/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=834&Itemid=235
http://www.gio.gov.tw/taiwan-website/gogo/goen_64.htm
http://www.maolin-nsa.gov.tw/maolin/content.php?L2_CODE=0009374&lang=en
http://eng.taiwan.net.tw/lan/Cht/attractions/scenic_spots.asp?id=2229&sid=